Vacation in Copenhagen

Copenhagen

I had always harbored a desire to visit Copenhagen, the enchanting capital of Denmark, renowned as one of Europe’s most beautiful cities. Its fame, featuring colorful buildings, charming canals, and a rich cultural heritage, not to mention the iconic Tivoli Gardens, whose inspiration was drawn from Disney parks, had reached my ears. Thus, my wife and I decided to seize the opportunity, booking a flight for a few days in July when we anticipated warm and sunny weather. Unfortunately, we were unable to secure a direct flight, and the best option involved a layover in Amsterdam.

The day of our flight commenced early, as we found ourselves within the terminal, eagerly awaiting our departure. However, our excitement was interrupted by a disconcerting message: “Your connecting flight has been canceled; we will update you shortly on the next steps.” Swiftly, we approached the boarding counter where, fortunately, a flight attendant provided efficient assistance. She quickly resolved the issue, securing us tickets for a connecting flight delayed by two hours from our original departure time. Although our arrival in Copenhagen was delayed by approximately two hours, we were relieved to arrive during daylight hours.

The train from the airport conveniently transported us close to our pre-booked hotel. Then another problem appeared, a second surprise: we discovered that our hotel was a capsule-style accommodation designed for youth travelers, where each “cell” consisted of nothing more than a bed. Fortunately, the receptionist empathized with our predicament, promptly canceling our reservation and assuring us of a full refund. True to their word, our money was reimbursed within a few days.

Following the mishap, we accepted the receptionist’s advice for an alternative hotel, which, while comfortable, came at nearly double the cost—certainly not in line with our initial budget-friendly expectations.

brilliant idea

During a temporary layover in Amsterdam, a delightful idea surfaced: since we were already in the city of canals, why not extend our stay before returning to Israel? We promptly adjusted our flight schedule and secured a hotel in the city center. However, the booking error in Copenhagen was a warning that required the Amsterdam booking to be checked. This time, too, we mistakenly reserved accommodations at a youth hostel with shared rooms. Fortunately, we had wisely invested in a cancellation option, which proved invaluable as we swiftly canceled our reservation. Finding an alternative hotel, though, proved to be a challenging task. Ultimately, we settled on a hotel excellently situated near Dam Square and the central train station. While the room was compact and located on the fourth floor, with the elevator reaching only the third floor, it boasted cleanliness and tidiness. Once more, the price exceeded what we would have paid at the hostel, underscoring the substantial surge in hotel rates within the heart of Europe’s cities. Long ago, a reasonable 2-3 star hotel might have set you back 100-120 euros per night, but today, you’d be hard-pressed to find one for less than 200 euros per night.

Back to Copenhagen

Soon thereafter, we embarked on our exploration of the city. A wide boulevard lined with shops, cafes, and street performers led our way. At a nearby bakery, we savored a pastry known as Wienerbrod, a delectable treat characterized by its flaky, buttery layers filled with custard and sweet jam. Our journey continued to City Hall Square, featuring the impressive City Hall building, complete with a towering clock. Nearby, the statue of Hans Christian Andersen, the celebrated fairy tale author born in Copenhagen, stood proudly. Adjacent to it, an interactive museum guided us through Andersen’s iconic stories, including “The Little Mermaid”, “The Ugly Duckling,” , “The Emperor’s New Clothes” and more.

The Little Mermaid

Our stroll led us to one of Copenhagen’s most renowned artistic treasures: the Little Mermaid statue. Perched a few meters from the shore on Langlini pier, this bronze masterpiece, depicting a mermaid gazing wistfully into the horizon, its tiny size quite surprising, measured only 1.25 meters high. Crafted in 1913 by sculptor Edward Eriksen, it was gifted to the city by the Carl Jacobsen brewery. Capturing a photo of the statue amid a sea of tourists proved challenging but not impossible.

We continued along the waterfront through a splendid garden, A sound of a seaplane taking off nearby filled the air, carrying a group of tourists eager to enjoy an aerial view of the city.

Eventually we arrived to Nyhavn “new harbor”, a picturesque canal district adorned with colorful houses and restaurants. Many of these structures date back to the 17th and 18th centuries, once housing notable figures, including Hans Christian Andersen himself. We indulged in traditional Danish cuisine, savoring smorrerbrod (open-faced sandwiches), herring, and a glass of Carlsberg beer, brewed right in Copenhagen.

Bikes – the preferred transportation for the residents of the Danish capital

One striking observation was the city’s strong embrace of bicycles, as residents energetically pedaled to work and various destinations. Copenhagen featured numerous bicycle parking lots, many of which appeared to be unlocked. I couldn’t help but wonder how bicycle owners managed to find their specific bikes amidst the sea of similar-looking ones.

Later, we strolled along the river, and to our surprise, we stumbled upon a riverside beach suitable for swimming and sunbathing. Within the river, there was a facility resembling a pool, complete with a wooden diving platform resembling a boat, from which dozens of young boys took turns leaping into the water.

Tivoli Gardens

On our second evening, we visited the enchanting Tivoli Gardens, conveniently located a short walk from our hotel. As we entered the park, we were greeted by a breathtaking spectacle: thousands of lights illuminating the park, creating a fairy-tale ambiance. The park offered a plethora of attractions, including a thrilling roller coaster with vertical and horizontal loops, evoking both joy and fear among its riders. 

We wandered through the park, admiring the lights and decorations. Fatigue eventually overcame us, and we retreated to our hotel for a restful night’s sleep. A giant Ferris wheel, a charming carousel, and a puppet theater catered to younger visitors. Wandering the park’s pathways, surrounded by lush gardens and trees, we encountered a serene lake with a stationary pirate ship, accompanied by melodious background music.

The following day, we explored the Christiana district, renowned for its eclectic character. Established by a group of hippies who gained autonomy from the state, the area is known for its free trade of marijuana and graffiti-adorned walls. We ventured into a small brewery, sampling an array of beers, from light and refreshing to dark and full-bodied.

Our journey continued to the Round Tower, where we ascended a spiral ramp originally designed for horse-drawn carriages, reaching a lofty terrace offering panoramic views of the city. We then visited the splendid Rosenberg Palace, surrounded by meticulously landscaped gardens, before concluding our tour at Amalienborg Royal Palace, nestled in a square bearing the same name. A charming alley led us to the magnificent St. Frederick’s Church.

Our journey took us to an indoor market where stalls offered a wide variety of products, and scattered throughout were restaurants. As we continued on our way, a procession of the king’s soldiers marched toward their destination at the king’s palace.

Our exploration of the city also encompassed Sondermarken Park, perfect for leisurely strolls, and Orstadsparken Park, where we admired sculptures, some inspired by mythology. In the heart of the latter park, a shimmering lake reflected the sunlight, casting a radiant glow on Danes jogging along its pathways. 

In the evening of that day we boarded the flight to Amsterdam.